A Taste of Australian Wine
Muscats and Tokays
of the Rutherglen Region
by Gavin Trott
I must begin by stating a bias, these wines are absolutely individual, world
class and at their best, ASTONISHING. I make no attempt at being unbiased
when describing them. If I get even close to their unique style, incredible
complexity and great age, if I make you want to run out and buy some, then
I have accomplished my goal! The complex flavours, the length, the age and
the mouthfilling qualities of these wines put Bordeaux, Burgundy, indeed
most other wines other than perhaps Vintage Ports and Madeira to shame.
So how are these astonishing wines made, and what are they made from?
The answer to both questions is deceptively simple. Each wine is a style
not a variety and each is made from a different grape. Muscat is made from
a brown coloured type of the grape Muscat a Petits Grains known locally
as Brown Muscat, and Tokay is made from Muscadelle, a grape better known
for a small role in the sweet wines of Bordeaux. In both cases the grapes
are grown in this hot sun drenched region and allowed to hang on the vine
long after the table grapes are ripe, soaking up that heat, turning it into
sugar, and then concentrating this sugar and the acid as the grape shrivels.
In this way the grapes often reach 16-20 degrees Baume (each degree Baume
roughly equates to one % alcohol after fermentation) quite naturally which
means the resultant wine will be both sweet and rich.
The grapes are then picked and crushed. This in itself is a difficult job
due to the raisined grapes and intense sugar levels. Next comes the fermentation,
the use of yeast to turn the sugar into alcohol. Many makers, Chambers included,
do not even start fermenting some wines (Tokay) or in very ripe years. Either
way, the short fermentation is stopped rather like Port by the addition
of high quality brandy spirit which kills the yeast leaving all that rich
sugary sweetness and flavour.
The next step involves time and patience. The young wine is cleaned then
put into oak barrels of varying sizes to age and develop. No new oak is
used for this process as the added flavour would not work with the wine,
in fact, most of the makers feel that the older the oak the better. Most
of these wineries are full of a myriad of barrels of varying sizes and some
of great age. The rest of the process is time.
What happens now is controlled oxidation. Over time, lots of time, small
amounts of air get in through the oak to affect the wine, and through these
same very small openings tiny amounts of the wines evaporate (locally this
evaporated liquid is known as the "angel's share"). The effect is three
fold:
Colour
The oxidation causes colour and flavour changes in the wine. Muscat when
young is reddish brown but time and oxygen turns it brown, then eventually
olive green, particularly on the rim. Tokay starts out lighter with golden
tints but follows the same pattern with very old Muscat and Tokay looking
quite similar.
Texture
Given the loss through evaporation both wines become noticeably thicker,
even oily. In fact, very old wines, and there are some as old as 100 years
and more, look and have the texture of Treacle or Molasses.
Flavour
Time adds to the complexity of the wines with older wines showing many aromas
and flavours that were not present in the young wines. Most noticeable among
these is 'rancio', a term much used with Sherries and Ports and which means,
at least as well as I can explain it, a mixture of volatility and other
substances (aldehydes for the chemists amongst us) which stop the sweet
wine from smelling and tasting over sweet or cloying. In fact, all the flavours
concentrate and intensify until older wines are quite literally explosive
in the mouth.
So what can I expect from Muscat and Tokay?
Muscat has an aroma that can be described as fruity, with smells of grape,
raisins, orange peel, rancio brandy spirit and more plus a palate including
incredibly intense sweetness, and many other flavours that I can't find
words for.
Tokay has all of these plus a characteristic flavour and aroma from the
Muscadelle grape that has been described as cold tea, fish oil, or malt
extract, all right, but all wrong ... you'll need to try the wine to know
what I mean.
Producers to watch for
Chambers Rosewood
Morris
Stanton and Killeen
Muscats and Tokays of the Rutherglen Region
Baileys
Campbells
Brown Brothers
All Saints
Wines to try
Chambers Liqueur Muscat and Tokay (younger)Very Old Liqueur Muscat and Tokay
(very special, very, very old)
Morris Canister Series (younger) or Old Premium Liqueur (older)
Stanton and Killeen Special Old Liqueur
Baileys Warby and Founder Range (younger) and Winemakers Selection (older)
Campbells Merchant Prince
Brown Brothers
All Saints Lyrebird Range
I once was privileged enough to try some 100 year old Muscat from Chambers.
It was so dark and thick you almost could not pour it! It looked like treacle
and in the mouth was explosive, almost searing in its intensity and the
flavour stayed with me for ages, longer than any other wine experience.
It is this wine, when blended in with medium and fresher wine, that makes
these old blends so sensational to try.
Gavin
is the manager of the Australian Wine
Centre (a large collection of affordable, rare and cult Australian wines)
and hosts the very popular Auswine
Forum (An online discussion forum about Australian wine) . You may reprint
this article either on a website or in print but you must maintain this
resource section naming the author. Please email the author
with details on where you intend to use it. You can obtain the latest version
of this article and more free wine content for your website from www.freesticky.com